Africa – Etosha

Zebras,  giraffe sitting down (can’t rotate pic- no edit possibilities, sorry); lion behind elephant and elephant family playing in the mud  as seen in Etosha Game Park.

 

Etosha Park in Namibia has been our home for the last few days….we have been up close and personal with elephants, lions, giraffes, zebra, kudo, springbok, hartebeasts, meercats, cheetahs, secretarybirds, oryx, impala and many more creatures….the motorcycle riders are enjoying the sand/gravel and the campsites are more remote but the weather is hot, hot and lovely.  We are so good at setting up camp and tearing down…yesterday a friend gifted me a bowl of french fries….I was ecstatic!   We are heading over to Victoria Falls and Zambia so hopefully I will have internet.  I promise to download photos when I can.  There is always such a long line for internet.  I have met so many wonderful travellers (in washroom facilities and at campgrounds) we may have to add cottages to deal with the international crowds who want to see Rice Lake!  I found a lovely remote lodge that might be a great retirement project for someone…. Brad Curle (early accident victim and neighbour) will be flying home to Canada tonight to recuperate….we miss him on the trip and can’t wait to share our stories when we return.

Missing you all but loving the experience….thanks to those who have responded…it was great to read your thoughts.  We can text so feel free to send Peter a message.  Onward, to Livingstone (can you just imagine what I will be saying there?).  More news from the Falls and Chobe….more animals await us.  Walking, especially at night, is difficult, as the animals do roam…….be good!

Meanwhile, back at the Resort it sounds as though all is ready for the Kawartha Fall Cycling Tour….enjoy a wonderful weekend of riding and ride-speak.   Wishing you all a good weekend.

Africa – Namibia

Report from Peter (we finally found an internet cafe so here is the scoop as seen through the eyes of Peter)

Really there has been little opportunity to write or communicate.  Cell phone coverage is much better here in the middle of nowhere than on the outskirts of Toronto but we are all very concerned with the costs that may apply so we are being careful not to call without need.

Our flight to Dubai was very comfortable.  The new double deck airbus is an amazing aircraft, comfortable and roomy.  We did a night tour of Dubai then had a nights sleep in an airport hotel.  The city is very strange.  Incredible sky scrapers being built everywhere in the middle of desert.  The architecture is stunning, the scope of the construction taking place is overwhelming but it all seems so out of sink with it’s surroundings.  HOT and HUMID.  I could not survive in Dubai!

The next days flight to Cape Town was in the Boeing 777 which had noticeably less space but then again we were getting tired of flying.   Service and food on all Air Emirates flights was outstanding.  I noticed even the aircraft washrooms are cleaned once an hour so they were as clean and fresh after a 12 hour flight as on departure where most airlines you require rubber  boots to enter the washroom after ann overnight flight.

We arrived in Capetown on Sunday afternoon and were transferred to the town of Strand, on the ocean, a few miles outside the main city.  We were all housed in sea side apartments for 4 nights to get acclimatized and organized.

Monday was spent collecting all the motorcycles and bringing them to Strand.  Tuesday was a great weather day and we spent the day on the bikes, riding around the Cape ;of Good Hope.  Stunning scenery and great biking roads, all paved.  Wednesday was cold and rainy.  Strand is close to Stellenbosh so Brad and Deb Curle, Anne and I, Tara Curle and new friends Carlo and Cathy went to the wine district for tastings and lunch.  A beautiful area, nice wineries and great wines.  Got some good ideas on tastings.  The best was a chocolate matched tasting (white chocolate with pear and guava with Sauvignon Blanc, dark chocolate with broken coffee beans with Cab Sauv for example).  We had an excellent lunch then back to prepare for the big departure Thursday morning.

We left at 6 am on Thursday in cold and overcast knowing we had a 750 km day ride north out of the populated Cape Town area.  We were told weather would change within a three hour ride so lots of clothing, including my motorcycle jacket was left behind to make space.  The day was a good ride, no lunch stops just fuel and a snack and we arrived cold and tired at a very poor seaside campground after dark.  They weren’t expecting us, the season has not yet opened (early spring here).  Great fun pitching tents and getting set up at night!

We started with about 18 bikes of different types and sizes with riders of totally different skill levels  Each bike carries it’s own gear and supplies.  An old 1989 Mercedes truck with a big box on the back with windows and bus seating follows us.  Anyone not riding is on the bus.  It also has cooking equipment so breakfast and dinner are prepared by volunteers with help from the driver and his helper.  Food budget is low so both quality and quantity leave something to be desired.  Generally, the last 25% of the people to eat any meal have a choice of bread with or without peanut butter.  Hot breakfast is infrequent ;but cereal and fruit are always there.

Friday we rode north and crossed the border into Namibia.  The process took over two hours and some of our group;, including our guide, were turned back because of this or that paper glitch.  Endless staff with little of nothing to do and in no hurry.  The longest lineup was to get our bikes cleared into the country.  They had to be registered and pay a fee of $80 local (about $12canadian).  One person typed with one finger on an old computer to take the bike information, plate, vin, address etc. etc.  When the paperwork was printed a second staff person took two copies and carefully aligned them to put in a staple, that the $80 and pass to a third staff who carefully hand entered the transaction in a journal.  Each person took at least 10 minutes.  Our group finally is back together after a week.   Some had to go to Capetown, get a visa, and fly north to rejoin the group.

We ended at a place called Ai Ais that night.  An amazing oasis in a gorge on the Fish River with a government owned resort and campground.  I am sure you can find Ai Ais, Namibia on the internet.  Great place, hot water springs, incredible scenery and a needed two night stay.

At this point unfortunately, we had had two crashes.  The first, a young man who is here with his father and grandfather, lost control passing a truck on pavement.  The bikes are heavily loaded with gear and can become unstable at speed.  He passed the truck and lost control at about 130 km/hr.  Incredibly the cartwheeling motorcycle and the truck following missed him and he is left with some uncomfortable scrapes on his back and a few days of stiffness.  He was checked over and out of hospital in 1 hour!  His new 800 BMW was completely destroyed.

The much less fortunate accident was Brad Curle.  We had gotten onto our first unpaved road and no more than 20 km into it Brad lost control of his V Strom.  He was talking to me on the Scala Rider at the time, commenting on how the knobbie tires he had mounted seemed loose on the gravel when he said “I’m losing it” and the bike went into a tank slapping weave that ended with the bike cartwheeling and hitting him.  Fortunately we have a fireman from hamilton in our group who took charge.  The guides were quite unprepared and there was mass confusion as help was sought.  We all have air evacuation insurance so the call was made there as well as to the closest health facility.  We were in the desert, miles from anything.  Finally, after about 3 hours, with us all watching the horizon for the helicopter we were expecting an ambulance (compact pick up truck with a cap) arrived and took Brad and Deb off on a rough drive to hospital.  t took two further days for the insurance company to agree to air lift him to Johannesburg and proper care.  App;arently the hold up was the local doctor not being prepared to say injuries were serious enough to warrant the lift.  We hear that his care there has been great.  He has had an operation for broken shoulder blade and clavicle and has four broken ribs.  Spirits are good and he is on the mend.   understand he will fly to Canada next week. His wife Deb is flying to Swakopmund to rejoin us for a few days today.  Their daughter Tara carried on on the second cycle.

Next we moved north on dirt roads 350 km to Aus, again setting up our tents in cold wet weather.  night time temps there dropped to minus 1but warmed to 12 to 15 through the day.  We rode to the coast the next day to luderitz, the town where the diamonds were discovered lying on the ground, and are still mined today.  We also toured a ghost town, where the diamond rush had taken place, not unlike going to Dawson City but far more opulent.  Timing of the boom/bust was almost identical to Dawson City.  People would pick up bowls of diamonds lying on the ground.

After leaving Aus the roads really began to deteriorate.  We hit a section without warning where the entire roadway was loose deep sand.  Some got stuck and their bikes stood there without the kick stand.  Tara was ahead of me and lost control of her V Strom and it did the same thing as her Dad’s.  Weaved in the loose stuff, she got through it but on reaching had road the bike went into an uncontrollable tank slap and cartwheeled.  Luckily she saw the bike pass over her and she was unhurt but a third bike destroyed.  These things land upside down on the handlebars then cartwheel.  obviously no a bike suited to this environment.

Our seventh night in the tents was spent in a desolate place in the dessert called Solitaire, Namibia.  Getting used to sand in everything and wardrobe is of no importance beyond warmth.  i have ridden with both long underwear and pants under y bike pants and everything I own under my ventilated jacket.

Bob Anderson and i took a short ride back at Ai Ais where we had the two day stop.  We Came across 6 guys on BMWs out in the dessert and stopped to talk. One of them owns a winery in Stellenbosh and he and I have a mutual acquaintance, Don Triggs.  We had a chat then they rode off northbound.  When we got to Solitaire, five days later, here they were trying to arrange an aircraft to fly out one of their guys who had lost his nerve and wanted to abandon his bike and fly out. He told me the road we were headed up yesterday was the most dangerous he had ever ridden.  We had 250 km to travel on it.  Seven of our group decided to have their bike trucked to Swakopmund, and seven of us elected to ride it.  In fact it was nothing worse than we had already seen but it was that bad for close to 200 km.  I never sat down for the entire ride, on the pegs and totally aware of what was coming.  Trucks and buses meeting and passing and dust, dust, dust. (read fine sand – it’s in our every crevice).  All in all however, a great day and a great ride with all of us arriving unscathed.  At one point is stopped to drink (we carry litres of water with us as day  time temps soar in the desert and it is hundreds of KMs between any sigh of man) and saw two KTM’s stopped on the side of the road.  Two French fellows left France four months ago and are in Namibia southbound, then shipping to South America.  Good visit and lots of KTM talk.  You can see their story on ADV rider or on the net under “Ride the World”.  They plan on spending 3 to 4 years.  Also talked to two fellows on pedal bikes riding from Cape Town to Europe.  One had been on the road for 4 years.  He was in better shape than me!

Anyway, we are in Swakopmund, Namibia, on the coast.  Nothing but sand as far as the eye can see.  We have two nights here in little cabins so we can regroup, do some maintenance, wash clothes etc.  It was really nice not to pitch a tent in sand last night.  Dinner was in a huge tent in the sand dunes last night, sat on the floor cross legged and had a relaxing evening sitting on large cushions under a full moon and cloudless sky.  Anne made a turban out of a scarf and looked very much at home.

This is quite an adventure – more of an “expedition” than any of us expected and will be the experience of a lifetime.  Each day demands your full attention, whether its setting up and tearing down camp, planning the route and riding or just getting along with 32 other strangers or absorbing your surroundings.  There is little time for thought of home and work.  This is truly a complete vacation.

Every person we have met so far is friendly and inviting.  At no time have we felt threatened in any way.

Anne adds:    Climbing Dune 45 at dawn near Sossusvlei was the highlight for me….we climbed up 150 m on the peak of the sand dune to see the sunrise and then ran down the dune….what a rush.  Not everyone thought so but I would do that again.  We then walked into the desert – why you ask?  It was a great lesson on the declining water tables in Africa as well as a lesson on survival.  My memories of Peter and gang with shirts tied around their heads, water bottles in tow and red faces are enough to remind me we won’t be doing that again.  Those of us not riding bikes are in a large truck (bus on top of the food and gear affectionately known as The Beast) anxiously watching for animals and news on the riders.  The roads are anything but smooth so it is a worry when we see a group on the sand.

Our driver/guide Valt and cook Gift have been wonderful to us – answering our many questions, telling us of their culture and sharing the differences.  We have not ever felt less than safe here.  We are an interesting group – quite adept at setting up and tearing down the camp in the dark, wind and with little time to spare.  The sand is everywhere….we see sand dunes meeting the ocean (beautiful), but the sand in our tents, clothing and teeth can be gritty and uncomfortable.  Including photos of the bikers at the Tropic of Capricorn, at a coffee stop (the beast with the bikes) and a shot of our Arabian Night dinner.  We are missing you all but as Peter wrote, we haven’t the time to think about anything much beyond safety, next meal and the elements (lips are chapped, sunscreen is your best friend, clean underwear a royal treat).  Missing you all – next few days we travel north to Etosha and the animals before heading to Victoria Falls where we hope to take a morning balloon ride over the falls. One thing you can’t help but notice here in Africa – the vastness is overwhelming and the world as we know it is too busy with distractions – when you sit on a sand dune and watch it developing you realize your life is but a grain of sand.

Africa -Wine Tasting in Stellenbosch

Just a quick ride away from the beaches on The Strand, Cape Town, South Africa, we find the popular wine country known as Stellenbosch.  WOndering why there were no grapes on the vines it occurs to you that it’s only spring down here…..we visited several wineries and enjoyed wine and chocolate tastings, great food, more spectacular views and of course, lots of laughter.   Tomorrow morning we head out for the long day of motorcycle riding north to Namibia.  We may not have access to modern communication for some days so standby.

Everyone back at Elmhirst’s Resort is taking care of business – weekend weddings, midweek conferences and the many autumn peepers (fall colour tour guests), not to mention the Lakeside Luncheon crowd and Sunday Brunch regulars.

Africa – Cape Town arrival

Peter with Air Emirates Flight Attendant

We have arrived in Cape Town, South Africa via Dubai (very Vegas and unreal in its construction and offering). Standing on the beach in Dubai felt like being in a sauna.

Monday:  South Africa    Touring the Peninsula…..What a place….wonderful beaches, ostrich farms, wineries, inspiring views, whales, penguins, gorillas,  seals, calla lilies growing wild and surfers…..and that’s just after a quick ride.  The group was anxious to get riding their motorcycles – the bikes had travelled well, shipped via Antwerp - and the first day of riding on the left side of the road was rewarding as we headed out to Chapman’s Peak and The Cape of Good Hope (amazing to think we are on the ever changing, unforgiving, turbulent sea at the bottom of the world).

Tuesday:  City tour of Cape Town - not to be missed.  History, spectacular views from Table Mountain, shopping,  heart wrenching politics and wonder in just a few hours.  The Townships are massive settlements of poverty striken families who seem to be stuck in a system that doesn’t allow for dreaming or moving up in the world.  You could lose your heart here!

While Keene is very far away, not only in physical distance but in culture and promise, Peter and I are loving the experience.  I hope you won’t mind hearing of our adventures while we travel throughout South Africa.

The Kawartha Fall Colour Cycling Tour is fast approaching…..have you booked your ride?  Oct 02-03

Dubai…here we come

Meanwhile back at the office….everyone is serious and working away……Ann, Pamela and Shanna taking care of business. 

Dubai is just too much……  

Rice Lake Wake-up

Waking up to the sun on Rice Lake makes me wonder why we are travelling to the other end of the world……I hope you get to experience a beautiful sunrise on Rice Lake at least once in your lifetime!  It’s difficult not to share what I see out the window several times a day.  Right now the herons are flying low, the birds are busy and the geese are preparing for the flight south….the loons have already gone.  I hear the cattle bawling as the young ones are being weened from their mothers….just like the first day of school.  Hunter the Wonder Dog is sensing we are travelling and is sure to be watching  for walking companions…..be my guest!

Birthday Skis

Waterskis and cupcakes for Ryder as we celebrated (early) his 9th birthday.  We simply cannot forget Ryder’s big day as he was born on Sept 13, (Peter and I were stranded in the Yukon after  9/11 and we missed his birth in Keene).  The big smile tells me you can expect to see Ryder dropping a ski next summer!  Happy Birthday Ryder.

The motorcycles have arrived in Cape Town, South Africa and we are heading out to join the group on Friday….I hope you will stay tuned to the blog as we report back and forth from Keene and South Africa.   I understand South Africa is as beautiful as Rice Lake. 

Fall Colour Flights

It’s a lovely time of year to take a sightseeing flight over the lake – the colours are so vibrant and the landscape so interesting – you’ll want to stay in the air.  Book a flight, have lunch and perhaps visit the Spa to update your pedicure polish…..easily done by calling 295-4591….bring a friend and share the experience!  What a great gift idea!

School’s On

School bus season begins….first day of school for the Resort gang means Georgia, Mary, Ryder and Nadiya will be gone all day – Sadie and Hunter (doggie playmates) were at the bus to say good bye.  Country roads will be filled with yellow buses and flashing lights so beware.  The air was crisp and cold for the start of school, as it should be.

Goodbye Henry

September means school time….Henry departed today, for The Hills Academy in Toronto.   It was a melancholy family gathering as we realized the summer was over.  Henry worked in recreation (skiboat and playin’) and in the kitchen this past summer.  We will miss him and wish him success with his  lacrosse dreams.  Uncle Stephen, dad Greg, Henry and Grandpa Peter stopped for a group hug! (see photo).

 Christmas Lakeside Lunch will be held on Monday Decembe 13 so make your reservation now – it’s a packed house – Gwen Ross will entertain on the piano….treat yourself.

It’s Couch Potato time again…book your midweek getaway and relax with friends or loved ones for only $399 (two people, two nights, meals and fun stuff).  Call 1-800-461-1940 to book.

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